Has there ever been a food more maligned than Spam, the pink mystery meat in a can? Its name is as mysterious as its contents, being an acronym (according to which theory you believe) of either ‘spiced ham’, ‘shoulder of pork and ham’, or ‘Specially Processed American Meat’. Whatever. But no one thinks ‘please pass me some of that high-grade foodstuff’ when they hear the word Spam.