Starting as early as late December and running until the end of March, forced rhubarb season lands. So why do they call it forced rhubarb? Well, the rhubarb is lured out of its natural winter hibernation early by forcing it with warmth and darkness, a little like the white chicory or asparagus so beloved by the French and Belgians.

Long, delicate stems are thrown up quickly, desperately reaching for the light that never comes. The stalk remains rose-pink and never gets the green tinge or big canopy of leaves that photosynthesis would allow, so it has a more delicate flavour and a less fibrous texture than the outdoor kind.

Tom Norrington-Davies celebrates the season of forced rhubarb, which is lured out of its hibernation to be the perfect foil for custard and crumbles.