Nothing goes to waste here: the shells of two cooked lobsters are toasted and simmered into a deep coral stock that becomes the sauce, so every layer tastes of the sea. It makes a generous supper for friends as the evenings draw in, with the first leeks of autumn softened alongside the seafood.

Why it’s so good: tarragon and a splash of vermouth lift the rich sauce, while a lemony Parmesan crumb gives a crisp finish over soft pasta and sweet meat.

Make it easy: make the bisque sauce and the leek and spinach layer a day ahead, then assemble and bake when guests arrive.