Hedgerows are heavy with brambles by the middle of September, and this is the pudding to make when a walk has ended with stained fingers and a full tub. A short spell in a hot oven turns the fruit glossy and syrupy without cooking it down to a mush.

Why it’s so good: warm, winey berries and their dark syrup run into a cool cloud of ricotta, and toasted cobnuts give it a bit of crunch.

Make it easy: roast the berries and toast the nuts in the morning, then whip the ricotta and put it all together just before pudding.