Cobs are at their sweetest now and the first decent leeks are in the shops, which makes this the moment for a lunch that needs one pan and no extra pots. Everything happens in the same wide pan: the meat browns first, the vegetables soften in the sausage fat, and the potatoes go in last to take on colour underneath.

Why it’s so good: soft leeks and sweet corn kernels against salty sausage and crushed, golden-edged potato, loosened at the end with mustardy crème fraîche.

Make it easy: 200g frozen sweetcorn works straight from the freezer if the cobs have gone over.