Papas arrugadas con mojo

Method

1. Put the potatoes and salt in a saucepan that’s big enough to hold the potatoes in a single layer. Pour in enough cold water to just cover them, then set over a high heat and bring to the boil. Cook, uncovered, for about 20 minutes or until the potatoes are tender to the point of a knife.

2. Drain any remaining water, then return the potatoes to the pan over a low heat, rolling them around occasionally, for a few minutes. This helps to remove the excess moisture and create the wrinkled salt crust.

3. For the mojo verde, put all the ingredients in a food processor with a big pinch of salt and whizz until smooth.

4. For the mojo picón, put the dried chillies in a heatproof bowl and cover with just-boiled water. Set aside for 10 minutes to rehydrate. (If you’re using chilli flakes, you can skip this step.)

5. Put the rest of the ingredients (except the oil) in a small food processor with a pinch of salt. Whizz to a coarse paste. Lift the chillies out of the water (reserve the liquid), then remove and discard the seeds and stalks. Add the chillies to the processor and whizz again, then start slowly pouring in the oil with the motor running. If the mixture is still a bit thick (you’re aiming for a sort of loose pesto rather than a thick romesco), add a splash of the chilli soaking liquid (or water, if using chilli flakes).

6. Serve the potatoes with the sauces on the side. A great way to eat them is to take a potato, crush it a little with your thumb to make a sort of well, then spoon in a little of both sauces and eat in a single bite.