Celeriac comes into season just as the evenings turn cold, and it makes a lighter, nuttier mash to sit under a pile of browned bangers. While the meat roasts in the oven, the sliced onions collapse slowly on the hob until soft, sticky and jammy.

Why it’s so good: A splash of bitter and a spoonful of redcurrant jelly give the gravy a bittersweet depth, and wholegrain mustard sharpens it at the end. Mashing celeriac with floury potatoes keeps the texture fluffy instead of wet.

Make it easy: Cook the gravy the day before and reheat it gently while the sausages are in the oven.