The potatoes do their slow work in the oven, barely bubbling in thyme-scented rapeseed oil, which leaves the cook free to make the sauce before anyone arrives. By the time the pan is hot for the seafood, everything else is waiting.

Why it’s so good: Sweet, caramelised scallops sit against a silky sauce that carries the warmth of fresh ginger and the sharpness of dry cider, while matchsticks of raw apple add crunch.

Make it easy: Confit the potatoes and make the velouté the day before, then reheat both gently while the scallops sear.