By October the cobnuts at the greengrocer have turned from green to brown, and their flavour has deepened with them. Cobnuts, the Kentish Cobnuts Association explains, are cultivated British hazelnuts, sold fresh from about the middle of August through to October.

Why it’s so good: A spell in the oven dries the nuts and gives them a sweet, buttery crunch that stands up to bitter chocolate. Melted butter and dark sugar keep the middles chewy while the edges crisp.

Make it easy: Swap in ready-blanched hazelnuts when the cobnuts have sold out, and there is no shelling to do.