Suet pastry is a forgiving place to start with pastry: there is no rubbing in and no chilling, just a quick mix of flour, suet and water into a soft dough that bakes light and crisp on top while staying tender underneath. Here it covers a dark, glossy braise of venison shoulder and chestnut mushrooms, a hearty way to enjoy lean game meat.

Why it’s so good: Juniper and a spoonful of redcurrant jelly bring out the gentle sweetness of the venison, and two hours in a low oven turn the shoulder meltingly tender.

Make it easy: Make the filling a day or two ahead, then top with the crust and bake when needed.