Split a crisp-skinned jacket and the steam carries thyme and garlic with it. This is a filling for the darker evenings, when British kale is back in the shops and a bag of baking potatoes costs very little.
Why it’s so good: The vegetables are fried over a high heat so the mushrooms brown instead of stewing, then crème fraîche and mustard turn the pan juices into a quick sauce that soaks into the fluffy middle. A crumble of blue cheese adds a salty edge.
Make it easy: Start the potatoes in the microwave for 10 minutes, then give them 30 minutes in the oven to crisp the skins.





