Leeks cooked slowly in butter until they slump into something soft and sweet are the base of this bowl. British leeks are back in the shops from September, according to the Vegetarian Society’s UK seasonal produce calendar, and they need little more than beans and a handful of seafood to become a warming weeknight stew.

Why it’s so good: Crushing some of the beans against the pan thickens the broth without any flour, while fennel seeds and lemon zest give the sweet prawns a fresh, gently aniseed edge.

Make it easy: Use frozen raw prawns defrosted overnight in the fridge and the prep takes about ten minutes.