Wild mushrooms reach the greengrocer in September, and a panful of them, torn and fried hard in smoked bacon fat, is what gives this braise its depth. Butter beans provide the body, and the vegetables underneath cook down to a savoury base that asks for little more than toast alongside.

Why it’s so good: Frying the mushrooms in two batches drives off the water they hold, so the sauce tastes deep and woody rather than thin.

Make it easy: A 250g pack of mixed exotic mushrooms from the supermarket stands in when the greengrocer has nothing wild.