The last warm evenings of the year and the brambles are heavy with fruit. A handful of blackberries, sharpened with balsamic and softened with a spoon of honey, makes a glossy pan sauce for duck in the time it takes the meat to rest.

Why it’s so good: Starting the duck in a cold pan renders the fat slowly, so the skin ends up thin and crisp while the meat stays juicy, and the rendered fat is then used twice, for the sauce and the beans.

Make it easy: Cook the runner beans in the potato pan for the last few minutes so there is only one pan of water to drain.