Late September brings the last of the blackberries and the first proper chill, and this starter makes the most of both: wood pigeon breasts seared and served pink over roast beetroot, with a glossy port and blackberry sauce and a scatter of toasted Kentish cobnuts. It looks like restaurant food and takes 40 minutes at the stove.
Why it’s so good: Pigeon is dark, lean and gamey, and blackberries and beetroot carry the same earthy sweetness, so the sauce tastes as though it grew in the same hedge as the bird. The cobnuts add crunch against the soft meat.
Make it easy: Roast the beetroot and toast the cobnuts earlier in the day, then the only cooking to do in front of guests is a few minutes of searing and a quick pan sauce.






