If you thought steaming was just something for vegetables destined for the side of your plate, we’ve got news for you: it’s actually one of the most versatile, exciting cooking methods.

Why steam?

Steam cooks gently and it cooks wet. Food can’t get hotter than the steam around it, so nothing scorches or dries out. That’s why a butterflied chicken breast comes out juicy after 20 minutes, why fish stays silky and why vegetables keep their colour and bite instead of turning waterlogged.

It isn’t only for savoury food either. Steam a sponge batter and you get a soft, pale crumb with no crust, as in these Vietnamese coffee cakes.

What you need

You don’t need special kit to start. A tiered bamboo or metal steamer is the easiest option and lets you cook two things at once. Without one, I’d sit a colander or sieve over a pan of simmering water and cover it with a lid, or stand a heatproof plate on an upturned saucer inside a lidded pan.

How to get it right

  • Watch the water. Keep it at a steady simmer and below the level of the food. Top up from a just-boiled kettle so the steam doesn’t drop off.
  • Give everything space. Lay food in a single layer with gaps between the pieces so the steam can move around them.
  • Line the basket. Baking paper stops delicate or sticky food from catching. Leave the edges clear so steam can still rise.
  • Cut evenly. Pieces of the same size cook in the same time.
  • Stagger the tiers. Start whatever takes longest, then add the rest. In the chicken salad with fennel, orange and olives, the fennel joins the chicken for the last 10 minutes.
  • Keep the lid on. Every peek lets heat out. When you do lift it, tilt it away from you.
  • Check chicken is cooked through. There should be no pink meat and the juices should run clear.

Add the flavour at the end

Steam doesn’t brown, so you won’t get the caramelised edges that roasting or frying gives. Season well before cooking, then finish with something bold: a sharp dressing, a flavoured butter, hot oil or a crunchy topping.

That’s the thinking behind the sea bream with sizzling ’nduja, the cabbage and green beans with chipotle honey crunch and the satay sweet potatoes. The same approach works for a simple side such as steamed carrots with spring onion and chive butter.